|
THE CANVAS
We use 10.38 Oz. and 12.63 Oz. ARMY DUCK canvas. This tightly woven, “Double
Fill Duck” has a higher thread count than most canvas. It is 100% cotton
and preshrunk for the marine industry, then factory finished with Sunforger.
Sunforger is a baked-in, invisible, durable process. A Sunforger finish
makes the canvas mildew resistant-an important attribute in a tent that we
all know will get packed up wet more than once. Sunforger also transforms
the canvas into a water repellent medium. This allows your tent to breathe
while keeping the rain outside where it belongs. Yes, you can touch the
tent when wet and it will not leak through onto you.
I also offer every tent I make in a flame resistant finish. This
finish is applied to the Sunforger Army Duck and meets the Industrial
Fabric Assoc. Tent Spec. CPIA-84, adopted by many states and the
federal government as the standard. While not making a tent flameproof, it
offers a margin of safety previously unavailable in a canvas tent. I
strongly recommend the purchase and use of a flame resistant tent. Some
states have mandated the sale of only flame resistant tents to be sold
within their borders. A flame resistant fabric does not preclude good
judgment when dealing with fires in camps. Always act responsibly around
fire, especially in large camps where so many families and worldly goods
are at stake.
UNTREATED 14.9 Oz.: "Single Fill Duck" is available for
those wanting a tent made from completely natural materials with nothing
added.
10.38 OZ. SUNFORGER Army Duck: Water repellent and mildew
resistant.
10.38 OZ. SUNFORGER FLAME RETARDANT Army Duck: Water
repellent, mildew resistant, and flame retardant.
12.63 OZ. SUNFORGER Army Duck: Water repellent, and mildew
resistant.
I use this canvas on Tepees because it will hold up better to constant UV
exposure. It is also my choice of canvas for the Cavalry Bedroll.
12.63 OZ. SUNFORGER FLAME RETARDANT Army Duck: The 12 oz.
also comes with flame retardency.
CALLIOPE Vinyl Coated 9.0 Oz.
polyester duck: A flame retardant material that I use for my range
tent floors and my wall tent sod cloths.
18 Oz. NUMBERED DUCK: Notice the difference in weave between this number
duck and the other army ducks; although there is larger yarn, the tighter
weave of an army duck gives better water repellency. I use this fabric on
the traditional cowboy bedroll only.
5.2 Oz. TEX-TEX FR: “Ultra light Polyester” Great in the sun and flame
retardant. Other tent companies call it ultra light. I don't make a
complete tent using this material alone, because it doesn't breathe. But I
do like to combined it with canvas. The two materials make a great
light weight wall tent. Check the tent pricing page, under Blended Tents.
SKIPPER DUCK: Is a14.9 Oz. “single fill” factory finished with “Canvak”;
it smells, some people don't like it. I use this canvas for tent
floors and pack tarps. It is OD. Green.
WOVEN VINYL: “Phifertex” Is my choice for flooring. It doesn't
smother the ground. and water will not puddle on it. Yes, water will come
through it from beneath; but lets face it, that isn't were water should be
anyway. If water is running into your tent it should be diverted before it
gets there. Woven vinyl is the cheapest product in my shop because its an after
market good. The downside is that it some times has stripes on it. My
apologies, I'll make it up to you in the cost of the floor.
Care for your Canvas
Tent: After you buy a tent you should wet it down. This will let the
canvas shrink a bit and make it more water proof. I say shrink a bit,
because I really don’t want your tent to shrink a lot. The best way to
keep it from doing that is to let it dry on the frame staked out. So what I
am trying to say is that you should put the tent on the frame, stake it to the ground, guy it out and then wet it down. Let it dry and then put it away.
Cleaning: Should be a
mild experience on the canvas. Use a soft bristle brush, cold water, and
dish sop. If mildew is on the canvas a diluted mixture of water and
bleach can be used but rinse immediately. Never pressures wash the
canvas unless you are planning to give a full dose of treatment
afterwards. Of course if the tent is a completely untreated product than
bombs away, but the majority of my tents are treated with Sunforger.
There is not a replacement of Sunforger but I have a product that is
compatible. It is called Nik-Wax “cotton proof”, which you may find at a
sporting goods store or I can send it to you. It costs $20.00 per bottle
and it makes a half gallon. You will need a gallon for every 100 square
feet, so
do the math and give me a call.
Repairing: A hole is
not as difficult as you think. There is a glue/seam sealer called Val-A
Tear mender. With it and some comparable canvas patch material you can
repair almost any size hole. Although, a patch can be applied when the tent is standing, for better control work when the canvas is on a hard
surface. On the inside or outside of the tent, or both, cut a patch and
outline it on the hole. Squirt some glue on the outlined area of the tent
and then on the patch, using a foam brush spread the glue evenly,
briefly air dry and then apply the patch. If you have a fabric roller
(a small hard rubber roller to apply even pressure) use it on the
new patch and you’re good to go.
|
