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Wall Tent Packages
Wall Tents
Wall Tent DirectionsI make a western style wall tent. This means that because of ridge openings and plenty of reinforcement, a large rough timber can be passed through the peaks of the tent. This simplifies set up when using poles obtained from the forest. I make and sell tent frames, but I specialize in making the canvas with this type of rustic set up in mind. Stove jacks and sod cloths are standard items on most of my tents. I am not a tent and awning canvas shop, so you will never find
leftover awning fabric hanging from the bottom of my tents (attempting to
call itself sod cloth). I purchase accompaniment fabric for a
specific design quality, and will not use fabric because its lying around
and has been paid for. When reinforcing a stress point in a tent I don't
use some non-conforming bomber nylon that will outlast the tent by 20
years. I simply double or triple up the same tent fabric that the tent is
constructed with, this allows the reinforcement to shrink or expand with
the tent. Other tent companies sew nylon webbing continuously along the
top of the 5' wall which is great to hold a grommet in, but nylon
doesn't shrink like canvas, therefore, when the canvas gets wet, the
grommet tab curls forming a gutter that leaks water into the tent, not
good. I on the other hand, reinforce the grommets individually
letting the top of the wall hold its own, which it does fine. In fact, to
ensure good drainage we stitch the eve tab to the wall between the
grommets. The stove jack is fiberglass fabric with a silicone ring welded to it, therefore it will never burn or unravel. The stove flap is completely detachable from the roof or wall, where it is attached with Velcro beneath a shingled seam that routs water away from the stove hole. There will never be a fire started because of a weather flap that has become untied and touches the stove pipe on one of my tents. You can fit a 10' log through the ridge hole opening and it's sealed with a drawstring sock sewn to it. This is the best way to eliminate tearing at the peak opening.
I use a very sexy (coated) 600 dinnear nylon fabric for my sod cloth, it
is cut 12 wide and sewn to the inside bottom edge of the tent.
The grommets along the bottom of the tent are reinforced with the
tail end of a 1 nylon loop. There are cotton loops sewn to the top of the inside wall to string up a clothesline. Reinforcement patches are all cut in 60 degree angles double stitched into the tent and match, peak to roof ,eve to wall. This may be just cosmetics, but we like it this way, and think you will as well when you lay back in your cot and have nothing to view but the roof of your tent. A 2 webbing holds each bottom corner of the tent together with two grommets per corner; the tent will never rip out here. All seams are folded and double stitched with a lock stitch machine.
I don't own a chain stitch sewing machine. Our outfitter tents are cut
with 30 degree angles. What varies is the peak height, but the pitch
remains the same on 10', 12', 14' 16' and 18' wide tents. On the preceding pages are options that can be added to your tent, and most items can be constructed and shipped in 15 days or less. There are certainly applications for lesser quality tents, but however a tent is constructed, 50 to 100 yards of canvas must be consumed. I can't bring myself to waste even a low grade material that way. If you're looking for a tent that will give years of intrepid performance, I'll leave you with one quote "THE QUALITY REMAINS, LONG AFTER THE PRICE IS FORGOTTEN."
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